


Ever hopped on a night bus in Vietnam? Leaving the limestone karsts of Tam Coc behind, I settled into a sleeper bus bound for Phong Nha. The ride was long but comfortable, with most coaches running overnight so you wake up fresh in Quang Bình.
In fact, a quick check of schedules shows over 50 direct night buses departing Tam Coc between 6:30pm-10:00pm and arriving Phong Nha early in the morning. Buses cost about US$12-25 ($250k-550k VND) one-way.
Companies like HK Bus Lines and Sapa Discovery run 21- or 22-seat sleeper buses with reclining berths (pick-up at Tam Coc pier and drop-off in Phong Nha town).
The earliest bus leaves around 7:00am and the fastest highway coach can make the 300-380 km trek in 6-8 hours.
Pros: Very cheap and convenient (no train needed). Bunk beds on wheels, blanket/pillow provided. Plenty of departures (up to 144 per day). You can stretch out and sleep.
Cons: It’s a long overnight haul. Locals often crowd the bus so book in advance on 12Go or Baolau. Beware of unmarked “transfers” - always confirm your drop-off. Some buses stop to sell overpriced souvenirs or even charge extra (scam alert: always insist on pre-paid tickets or reputable companies).
a VIP Sleeper Bus in Vietnam. Source - klook
A direct sleeper bus is easiest - you don’t need to change in Dong Hoi. Booking platforms like 12Go (or the Vietnamese site Baolau.com) show tickets from about VND 275,000 (~US$12) on King Express (the cheapest) up to ~$23 on premium coaches.
You can also ask your Tam Coc hotel to book it (they often work with local agents).
Tip: travel light (buses have limited luggage space) and bring earplugs and a sleep mask in case of bright lights or a chatty neighbor.
If you crave comfort and scenery, the train is a solid choice - especially during high season. From Tam Coc you first get to Ninh Bình Railway Station (a 15 min taxi ride).
Then take a Reunification Express train north to Dong Hơi (the city just south of Phong Nha). The train journey is scenic and much safer than bumpy Vietnamese roads.
Trains (including soft-seat or sleeper options) cover the ~410 km Ninh Bình-Dong Hoi route in about 9-10 hours.
The cheapest hard-seat is only ~$18, while a nicer soft-seat/sleeper costs ~$25-30. Once in Dong Hoi, a local minibus or taxi brings you the extra 50 km to Phong Nha (about VND 60-100k).
Sleeper Train Going Towards Dong Hoi
Book Early: Trains sell out fast in summer/holidays, so reserve via Baolau/12Go or the official site at least a few days in advance.
Pros: More legroom, no risk of road accidents, friendlier seats, and you pass through peaceful countryside. The fastest train does ~7.5h.
Cons: Slightly more expensive and slower overall (including the taxi/bus from Dong Hoi). Also, train schedules can change at short notice - leave slack in your schedule.
Whenever I have the choice, I still opt for the train from Ninh Bình to Dong Hoi. The Phong Nha Farmstay guide even suggests “use the train as much as possible” since “it’s much safer than the buses in SE Asia”. 
If you are looking for a reverse path and planning to travel from Phong Nha to Tam Coc then we have a wonderful tour guide for you to read :)
Motorbike Is One of the Best Option to Travel Between Vietnamese Cities as Long as You Have Good Driving Experience
For the truly adventurous: rent a motorbike in Tam Coc and ride north on Highway 1 or the Ho Chi Minh Trail. It’s about 300-400 km, so plan 2 days if you want to stop (Pu Luong or Mai Châu are stunning detours). Bikes rent for roughly VND 100-150k/day (~$4-6).
The roads are generally decent - stick to daylight hours (traffic is lighter and you’ll see gorgeous jungle scenery).
Pros: Ultimate freedom - you set your own schedule, stop at any village, and experience “real Vietnam” up close. 
The ride through rural backroads and karst valleys is spectacular.
Cons: Long day of riding (~7-8 hours straight). You need a valid license (and courage!) for Vietnamese highways. Fuel costs ~VND 4,000/km. 
Weather can change rapidly. Not ideal if your bike breaks down (phone coverage is patchy).
If you do go the bike route, pack light, wear good rain gear, and fuel up in larger towns. The guide suggests detouring through Pu Luong Nature Reserve for calmer roads and scenery. Personally I loved that feeling of the wind and quiet - just be prepared: drive defensively (locals will be on tiny scooters darting around) and keep valuables secure.
Finally, you can hire a private car/van with a driver for ultimate comfort. This is pricier (roughly €60+ per person one-way) but you’ll get door-to-door service. You can make stops on the way (e.g. at a cafe or scenic viewpoint), and you won’t have to deal with crowds.
Pros: Best for groups or if you have heavy luggage. It’s the fastest road travel (no bus stops). 
The driver speaks English and usually knows all the shortcuts. According to one review, a private van “is the premier way to travel” if you have the budget.
Cons: Very costly for solo travelers (€180 one-way for a 3-seater). Official airport taxis are exorbitant ($200+), so book in advance online. Make sure the rate is fixed.
Hung Thoong Cave in Phong Nha
Tip: Negotiate a flat rate up front or use a reputable platform. Local taxi services charge on meter (which might run ~$400 due to distance), so it’s safer to arrange with a tour van or grab a seat-share car. 
For small groups (4-6), a shared private car often ends up similarly priced per person as the sleeper bus.
There are no flights on this route. The closest airport is Đồng Hới (VDH), but it only serves a few domestic routes (from Hanoi or Saigon). The quickest way by air is to fly via Hanoi, but that’s way out of the way.
Book Early: High-season (Feb-Sep) sees packed buses/trains. Use Baolau to reserve and print your vouchers.
Avoid Scams: Only board buses at official stations or confirmed pick-up spots. When in doubt, ask your hostel or a licensed travel agency. Don’t buy tickets from touts. If a driver tries to upsell you on a “private transfer” upon arrival, firmly decline if you are already booked.
Pack Essentials: Even on overnight buses, carry water, snacks, a power bank, and earplugs. Wear a hoodie or bring a jacket (AC can be freezing). On trains, glow-in-the-dark markers help navigate in dim cabins.
Money Matters: Almost everything (tickets, food, souvenirs) is paid in Vietnamese dong. US dollars won’t be accepted on local buses or at park entrances. Have plenty of small VND notes (50k, 100k) handy. ATMs in Phong Nha town are reliable.
Phong Nha Backpacker Hostel
Connectivity: Internet is limited. Download Baolau/Google Maps offline. Let drivers know your drop-off by English name (“Phong Nha backpackers hostel” etc.).
Safety: Driving at night can be crazy in Vietnam (insane bus drivers, unlit roads). If flying solo, I’d avoid riding a motorbike after dark on these highways.
For Trains: They run on schedule but can be delayed by infrastructure work. Keep some buffer time if you have tours booked. The farmstay guide warns “do not arrive in Phong Nha on the date your tour is meant to begin” by train - arrive a day early to be safe.
With planning and caution, this journey can be smooth and even fun (just think of that sunrise arrival!).
P.S Read our tour guide if you are planning Son Doong tour of Vietnam in 2026!
Once you roll into Phong Nha, a world of natural wonders awaits. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is a UNESCO site packed with caves and jungle. Here are the key attractions, plus entrance fees (as of 2025) and tips:
Phong Nha Cave Is Accessible by Boat
Phong Nha Cave (Hang Phong Nha): The famous river cave where tours start at 07:30 and run until ~16:00. Tickets are 150,000 VND per person (around $7). You then hire a wooden boat (~360,000 VND) to float 1.5 km into the cave (split that cost if you can). Total visit (including the optional Tien Son dry cave) takes ~3 hours. Bring cash for the boat, and wear closed shoes (slick when wet).
Paradise Cave (Hang Thiên Đường): Paradise cave in Phong Nha is a showstopper stalactite cave reachable by a 500m electric cart (included in ticket). Entrance  250,000 VND (~$11). Open 7:30-16:00. Expect a 1km easy walk on wooden paths through cathedral-like caverns. Tour guides on-site will point out formations (gorgeous photo ops). Avoid midday if you can (it gets crowded by noon).
Dark Cave (hang Toi) Entrance, Phong Nha
Dark Cave (Hang Tối): Fun “adventure cave” tour - includes ziplines into water, mud baths, and river tubing. The combo ticket (seasonally 250k-450k VND) covers all gear: helmet, life jacket, zipline and kayak out. (Off-season it’s cheaper - low season 250k, high season 450k.) You’ll get muddy and wet, so bring a change of clothes or wear a quick-dry swimsuit. Park-open times are the same as above. Must do for thrill-seekers - locals call it Phong Nha’s “adventure playground.”
Nuoc Mooc Eco Trail in Phong Nha
Nuoc Mooc Eco Trail (Suoi Nuoc Moọc): A natural spring/stream perfect for a swim. Entrance 80,000 VND (plus small parking fee). There’s a series of rock pools and a waterfall; you can float in inner tubes. Great spot to cool off on a hot day.
Botanic Garden: A 40-hectare jungle garden inside the Phong Nha park. Entrance 40,000 VND (map included). You can trek unguided on marked trails through dense rainforest and see wild orchids and 100-yr-old trees. It ends at the Thác Gió waterfall (worth it for a quick dip). Wear hiking shoes; the park is well maintained with ropes on steeper parts. Lots of locals jog here, so you won’t be alone on weekdays.
Most sites operate daily 7:30am-4:00pm (some attractions like Paradise Cave end a bit later). When planning, note that caves have separate tickets and official visitor centers. Card payments are usually accepted at Paradise and Dark, but keep cash for Phong Nha boat and small stalls. Always keep your entry ticket — it’s checked at each site.
Inside Paradise Cave: its famous “castle hall” chamber lives up to the hype. Yes, that stalactite forest is free to wander once you’ve paid the 250k VND entry.
Phong Nha isn’t just about the usual tourist spots. Chat with fellow travelers or hostel staff and you’ll discover fun offbeat finds:
Phong Nha Botanic Garden
Botanical Garden Trek: As one traveler mentioned, the Botanic Garden lets you hike real jungle without a guide (so long as you follow the trails). It’s quiet, steeped in birdsong, and often missed by day trippers. Best visited early to avoid the midday humidity.
Pub with Cold Beer: Sounds like a dive bar, right? In rural Phong Nha there’s actually a place called “Pub with Cold Beer” where locals joke that you can even help catch the grilled chicken for dinner. (Whole grilled chicken is the only menu item - how’s that for farm-to-table!) A quirky taste of village life.
Wildlife Watching: Dusk at the Cave bat roosts (west of town) draws crowds to watch thousands of bats stream out in swirling patterns. Grab a cold beer at a nearby sidewalk cafe and enjoy the show at sunset.
Bong Lai Valley Famous Swing in Quang Binh
Bong Lai Farm Valley: About 15 km north, the scenic Bong Lai Valley has eco lodges, a waterfall and an animal farm. JungleBoss tours and Oxalis Adventure run mountain bike and hiking trips here. The valley’s quiet country lanes (think bamboo forests and rice paddies) are great for a half-day bike rental.
Local Eats: Don’t miss Phong Nha’s homemade beer and farm-to-table eateries. Gorilla Bar and the Dark Cave restaurant serve creative local twists (like five-color sticky rice). Street food stalls in Phong Nha town offer banh mi or fresh seafood by the river - all at very low prices.
There’s more to do than just spelunking! If you have extra time (or need a break from caves), try:
River Kayaking / Stand-up Paddleboarding: Rent a kayak or SUP on the Son or Chay Rivers. Paddling among the towering limestone islands is peaceful and gorgeous. Some tour operators (like Phong Nha Discovery) offer half-day kayak tours including quiet temple visits by river.
Swimming & Tubing: When it’s hot, jump in! Besides Nuoc Mooc (above), local guest houses rent inner tubes for floating lazily down the stream. Or go on a Dark Cave River Tour, which ends with tubing through the jungle river back to your start point.
Ozo Park of Phong Nha
Zip-lining & Adventure Parks: Phong Nha has its share of adrenaline. Try the zipline over the rice fields at Ozo Park or the adventure course (ropes, zip, slides) at Jungle Boss Zoo. Both are set in forest clearings with waterfalls.
Cycling the Countryside: Hire a bicycle (or motorbike) and explore Son Trach Commune: loop around sleepy villages, visit the local handicraft markets (woodcarving, sewing workshops), or find a hidden shrine. Vietnamese villagers are friendly - a wave and “Xin chao!” often get smiles (and maybe a selfie!).
Botanic Garden Walk: Already covered above, but it deserves a second mention as a relaxing half-day trip. Pack a picnic and enjoy nature trails.
Relax: Phong Nha is small - consider staying a few nights. Watch the sunrise light up karsts over coffee, or sip a beer by the slow riverside at night. Many homestays offer hammocks or even pools.
Q: Is there a direct bus from Tam Coc to Phong Nha?
A: Yes. Many operators (HK Bus Lines, Sapa Discovery, King Express, etc.) run direct sleeper buses from Tam Coc to Phong Nha daily. They leave Tam Coc from afternoon into late evening (roughly 6:30pm-10pm) and arrive the following early morning (travel ~7-8 h). You can book these tickets on 12Go or . There’s no need to change buses in Dong Hoi unless you’re unlucky - most are point-to-point.
Q: Can I ride a motorbike between Tam Coc and Phong Nha?
A: Yes, but be prepared for a long ride. The distance is ~300-400 km, so most people split it into 2 days with a stop midway. The roads are mostly paved highways, and you’ll pass through beautiful countryside. 
Bike rentals run about 100-150k VND/day. If you’re confident and time is short, you could do it in one marathon day (~8-10 h on the road), but expect fatigue. Helmets and licenses are a must (police do check). 
For many, the better combo is taxi/bus partway and bike the rest, or simply leave the bike behind and hire one in Phong Nha.
Q: How far is it between Tam Coc and Phong Nha?
A: By road it’s roughly 300 km (~187 miles) as the crow flies, but highway routes cover ~380 km. 
A straight-line Google map distance is ~300 km, which usually takes about 7-8 hours by bus or car.
Q: Where to stay in Phong Nha?
A: Most visitors stay in Phong Nha village (Son Trach commune) where the atmosphere is relaxed. Budget travelers love hostels like Thien Phu Hostel, and there are guesthouses along the river (e.g. Carambola Bungalow). 
Mid-range homestays like Jungle Boss or Phong Nha Bamboo are popular, and the swankiest option in town is Victory Road Villas. 
For an off-the-beaten-path vibe, consider booking a bungalow in Bong Lai Valley - the Phong Nha Farmstay is a top choice outside town. 
Basically, anywhere along the Son River will do - just pick your price range and book ahead in high season.
By mixing multiple transport modes and planning ahead, this Tam Coc → Phong Nha leg can be a highlight of any Vietnam adventure. Happy travels northward - and don’t forget to try the grilled chicken at that quirky “Pub with Cold Beer” on the way!
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