Hoa Lu Ancient Capital: Worth It or Nah in Ninh Binh?

Besides travelling here myself, I read through a bunch of reviews for Hoa Lu Ancient Capital and they're all over the map. Some people loved it. Some people thought it was boring. I figured I'd give you the actual breakdown instead of the usual Vietnam's ancient capital travel blogger fluff.

Here's what Hoa Lu is: old temples sitting in the middle of limestone mountains. Really quiet. You can walk through it in an hour. The history is genuine but not flashy. If that sounds interesting to you, go. If you need constant action, skip it. 
I can not recommend you enough to read about the history of this place completely if you really want to enjoy your visit, else it will be just old buildings for you without much context!

History of Hoa Lu

In 968 AD, Vietnam was fragmented. Different kingdoms, different rulers. An emperor named Dinh Bo Linh came along and unified everything. He needed a capital and he picked this place surrounded by massive limestone mountains. It was a smart move because the mountains gave him natural defense.

For about 40 years, Hoa Lu was Vietnam's main city. Three dynasties ruled from here. Then in 1010, the king moved everything to Thang Long, which is Hanoi now. That's it. Hoa Lu became history. Literally.

The temples you see when you visit are actual structures from that era. Not recreations. Not built for tourists. Real places where real kings ruled. That matters if you care about it. It doesn't if you don't.

What You'll See in Hoa Lu Ancient Capital

Two main historic temples of Hoa Lu are Dinh Tien Hoang Temple and Le Hoan Temple.

The main temple is pretty nice. Stone pillars with dragons carved into them. The architecture fits with the landscape. There's statues inside, some guardian elephants made of stone and ornate thrones. It's clearly a place where something important happened. You can walk through it and see why.

There's another temple about 500 meters away. Similar vibe. Smaller. If you're into this stuff, go see it. If not, don't bother.

There's a Buddhist pagoda known as Nhat Tru Pagoda with a stone pillar carved with scripture. It's quieter, more peaceful than the temples. Good place to sit for a bit and rethink your life decisions…

The best looking part is a cave about 300 meters away surrounded by limestone cliffs. There's a freshwater lake. You have to climb about 200 steps to get up there but the view is actually worth it. The landscape looks kind of surreal, to be honest. If you're going to take photos of anything, make it this.

Here is the google map location of Hoa Lu complex.

Reviews of Hoa Lu

I'm listing what people in the reviews said (you can check yourself too on google and tripadvisor reviews) because it's more useful than me trying to describe it. I am condensing them reading more than a hundred reviews so it's easier for you to understand without spending too long.

The entrance fee is 20,000 VND. That's 85 cents. Not worth getting upset about (unless you are broke but then how could you afford an overseas trip far away from your home to Vietnam then. right?)

You can do the whole thing in an hour. Some people felt that wasn't enough to justify going out of your way. They're probably right.

The temples aren't huge. One review literally said "just a couple of temples." If you're expecting massive palace complexes, this isn't it.

There isn't much information posted around. A QR code links to some info but people said it doesn't work great on mobile. Bring a basic understanding of what you're looking at or just wing it.

Parking areas outside have people trying to upsell you. They say parking is free then ask you to buy drinks. Restaurants nearby try to get you to park in their lots. It's annoying but not a deal breaker. If you ride a motorbike directly in, you avoid it. There's legitimate parking near the actual entrance.

The place is quiet most days. Some people loved that. Some found it boring. Depends what you're after.

The limestone mountains around everything look genuinely nice. That part most people agreed on.

Should you really go here

If you care about history and want to see where Vietnam actually started, yeah. If you're already in Ninh Binh for a couple days anyway, go for an hour. If you like quiet places and don't need entertainment the entire time, this is it.

Don't go if you've only got one day in Ninh Binh and want to maximize outdoor stuff. The boat tours at Trang An are more visually interesting. Don't go if you hate places without good guides or explanations. Don't go if you're timing every hour. It's not worth making a special trip unless you actually want to.

Think about yourself here. Do you get interested in history? Does standing where something important happened feel meaningful to you? Or does it feel like looking at rocks and buildings? That's the real question.

When to Visit

Spring and autumn are good. February to April, September to November. The weather's decent, rice fields look nice, you won't be sweating bullets.

There's a Hoa Lu festival in March (6th-8th). It gets crowded. If you want a quiet experience, avoid it. If you want to see something cultural and busy, go then.

How to reach Hoa Lu from Hanoi/Ninh Binh

From Hanoi, most people don't make this trip alone. You'd combine it with other Ninh Binh tours (like this one with Hoa Lu + Trang An boat tour + Mua caves for around $45 ). It takes 2 to 2.5 hours by bus, 1.5 to 2 hours by private car.

From Ninh Binh, rent a motorbike. Costs 100,000 to 150,000 VND for the day. Takes 15 to 20 minutes to get there. You pass through rice fields which look pretty nice. Or use the Grab app (uber of Vietnam) if you don't want to ride.

If you rent a motorbike, test the brakes and rearview mirrors plus lights before you leave. Do not skip this as all it takes is just one minute and saves headaches.

FAQ

1. Is Hoa Lu Ancient Capital worth it?
Yes, if you're in Ninh Binh and interested in history. The entrance fee is only 20,000 VND (less than $1) and you can see everything in 1-2 hours. Best combined with nearby attractions like Trang An or Tam Coc and Mua caves rather than visiting solo. The temples are modest but historically genuine.

2. How do I get to Hoa Lu, the ancient capital?
From Hanoi (90 km away): Bus takes 2-2.5 hours (70,000-90,000 VND), train takes 2.5 hours (100,000-200,000 VND) then taxi from station. From Ninh Binh: Rent a motorbike (100,000-150,000 VND per day) for a 15-20 minute ride, or use Grab app.

3. What is the history of Hoa Lu?
In 968 AD, Dinh Bo Linh unified Vietnam and made Hoa Lu the capital. It was chosen for its limestone mountain defenses and river access. Three dynasties ruled from here for about 41 years before King Ly Thai To moved the capital to Thang Long (Hanoi) in 1010.

4. How long at Hoa Lu, ancient capital?
Plan 1 to 2 hours. One hour covers the two main temples and pagoda. Add 30 minutes if you want to climb to Am Tien Cave. Most visitors see everything in about an hour.

5. What is the entrance fee for Hoa Lu Ancient Capital?
Adult entrance fee is 20,000 VND. Children (6-15 years) pay 10,000 VND. Children under 6 are free. Open 7 AM to 5 PM daily. No pre-booking needed. Audio guides available for 50,000 VND if you want.

6. What temples are at Hoa Lu Ancient Capital?
The main temples are the Temple of King Dinh Tien Hoang (main attraction with dragon carvings and royal statues) and the Temple of King Le Dai Hanh (500 meters away, smaller). There's also Nhat Tru Pagoda, a 10th-century Buddhist pagoda with an ancient stone pillar carved with scriptures.

7. Can you visit Hoa Lu Ancient Capital at night?
No, the temple complex closes at 5 PM. There's a separate Hoa Lu Ancient Town (reconstruction) near Ky Lan Lake in Ninh Binh city that's lit up at night from 5-10 PM. Free entrance, but boat rides cost 80,000 VND. This is different from the historical site.

8. Where can I find restaurants near Hoa Lu Ancient Capital?
Chef Dung Restaurant, Forest Sunset Bar and Restaurant, and Sun Mountain Bar are nearby options. Most serve Vietnamese food including spring rolls, fried rice, and local specialties. Many tour packages include lunch. Avoid restaurants at parking areas trying to pressure you into parking deals.

9. Are there photos of Hoa Lu Ancient Capital available online?
Yes, search Google Images, TripAdvisor, Instagram, and travel blogs. Best photo spots are the temple gates, dragon pillars, limestone mountain backdrop, and the view from Am Tien Cave. Early morning (before 9 AM) has the best light.

10. What is the map layout of Hoa Lu Ancient Capital?
The site covers 300 hectares but the main tourist area is walkable. King Dinh Temple is the entrance point, King Le Temple is 500 meters north, Nhat Tru Pagoda is nearby, and Am Tien Cave is 300 meters away (requires climbing 200 steps). Everything is easy to navigate and clearly marked.

Below is the map of Hoa Lu Ancient capital:

11. How much time should I spend at Hoa Lu Ancient Capital?
1 to 2 hours is ideal. One hour for the temples if you move at a normal pace. Add 30 minutes if you want to visit Am Tien Cave and climb the stairs. It's a compact site, not a full-day destination.

12. What should I know before visiting Hoa Lu Ancient Capital?
Bring water, sunscreen, and comfortable shoes. Dress modestly (no bikini tops). Limited English signage, so research beforehand or hire a guide. Watch out for parking scams outside the entrance. Best combined with Trang An or Tam Coc boat trip. Open 7 AM to 5 PM. Avoid major festivals if you want a quiet experience.