Phong Nha to Hoi An Motorbike Tour | Vietnam Adventure

Soaring limestone peaks and emerald rivers dominate the landscape as I ride out of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. Vietnam’s karst scenery here is some of the country’s most sublime. Today we’re headed south on a roughly 340 km journey toward Hoi An.

By car this would take about 6 hours, so on a bike it’s best split into 2-3 days with stops. We leave Quảng Bình province via quiet paved roads; after Dong Ha and Hue the highway (QL1A) hugs the coast into Da Nang.
The ride is mostly on good pavement, though be alert for heavy trucks and rain-slick corners.

Highlights & Stops

• Phong Nha & Caves: If you haven’t already, explore the famous caves here. Paradise Cave (Thiên Đường): entry ~250,000 VND (open ~8 AM-4 PM). Phong Nha Cave itself is 150k plus a boat fee. These early stops can add a half-day before you depart.
  

Vinh Moc Tunnels in Quang Tri

• Vinh Moc Tunnels (Quang Tri): Riding south you enter the old DMZ region. A key detour is the Vinh Moc tunnels - a 300m-long underground refuge from the war. Today it costs just ~40,000 VND to explore. The narrow brick passages and dim light (bring a flashlight) make it an eerie, educational stop. Plan 1-2 hours here.
  

Hue City Citadel

• Hue City: Continuing, you’ll reach Huế - the ancient capital of the Nguyễn emperors. The Imperial Citadel and Forbidden Purple City are highlights (entrance about 150,000 VND). Allow a couple of hours in the morning or late afternoon to tour the royal tombs, pagodas, and the 7km-long Citadel walls. Huế’s cuisine is famous - try bún bò Huế (spicy beef noodle soup) in a market stall or riverside cafe. Overnighting in Huế is popular; there’s everything from budget hostels to mid-range hotels.
  

Hai Van Pass

• Hai Van Pass & Coast: South of Huế, you’ll hit the Hai Van Pass, a 20-30 km stretch of winding cliffside road. The views of the East Sea are legendary. Stop at one of the roadside cafes (there are dozens) to sip coffee and take in the panorama.
  
  After crests, the highway plunges to Lăng Cô Bay, a golden-sand crescent below misty hills. The Top Gear episode used this viewpoint, and late afternoon is when the light works. If time allows, take the backroad along the Lập An Lagoon: a quieter route with optional detours to small waterfalls like Thác Đỏ or Suối Mơ.
  

View of Pagoda on the Danang Marble Mountains

• Da Nang & Marble Mountains: Descending from the pass, you enter Da Nang. A worthwhile stop is the Marble Mountains (Ngũ Hành Sơn). A ticket is ~40,000 VND, which grants entry to the cluster of marble hillocks with Buddhist shrines and caves. You can climb 100+ steps or pay ~15,000 VND to ride the elevator up for a view. Don’t miss Am Phủ (Hades) Cave at the base for a spooky shrine (40k entry). Elsewhere in Da Nang, the Son Tra peninsula has the giant Lady Buddha pagoda (free) and nice sea views.
  

Elephant Springs Suối Voi

• Elephant Springs (Suối Voi): En route between Da Nang and Hoi An (just off the highway near Phú Lộc), Elephant Springs is a forest stream with waterfalls and pools you can swim in, and it is signposted off the highway. Entrance is very cheap (around 10,000 VND). There are swings and bamboo huts to relax in. It’s perfect for a midday break in warm weather - locals warn it can be crowded on weekends, but mid-week it’s peaceful.

• Hoi An Ancient Town: Finally, about 30 km from Da Nang you’ll roll into Hoi An. This riverfront town is famed for its lantern-lit old quarter. Note that foreigners must buy an entry ticket (~120,000 VND) to walk the main streets and enter temples. That ticket covers admission to 5 sites (like the Japanese Covered Bridge). Exploring the Old Town by bike (parked at the gate) or on foot is magical at dusk.

By evening I pull into Hoi An’s Old Town. Sunlight glints on the yellow facades and lanterns swing in doorways. In one last note of adventure: don’t miss Hoi An specialties like cao lầu noodles and bánh mì Phượng in the nearby market!

Practical Tips

• Pack for Weather: Central Vietnam can be hot and humid April-August. Pack light, quick-dry layers, and sunscreen. A good rain jacket and rain pants are essential - sudden downpours are common even in the dry season. Use a rain cover on your pack.

• License & Legal: By law, any bike over 50cc requires a valid motorcycle license (for foreigners an International Driving Permit recognized in Vietnam). In practice many travelers ride scooters (110-150cc) on a whim, but consider the IDP for safety. Always wear a sturdy helmet - it’s legally required and will save your skull on a slip or fall. Never drink and ride; Vietnam enforces drunk-driving strictly.

• Road & Fuel: National highways in this region are generally well-maintained. Watch out for potholes or broken pavement after rain. Drive defensively - keep an eye out for animals (buffalo, dogs) and trucks taking bends. Start each day with a full fuel tank: fuel stations are frequent in towns (Dong Hoi, Dong Ha, Hue, Danang, etc.), roughly every 30-50 km. Fuel costs about $0.70-0.80 per liter (19-20k VND). Carry a bit of cash for rural pumps, as not all take cards.

• Navigation: Vietnamese road signs in rural areas can be sparse. Download an offline map (Maps.me or Google offline) and consider a local SIM card for data. Vietnamese drivers use the horn liberally, so pay attention at merges. Daytime riding is safest; avoid night riding on winding roads.

• Money & Phones: Bring enough cash (VND) for entrance fees and meals - ATMs are common in big towns but scarce in villages. Most small vendors won’t take cards. Charge your phone each evening; consider a power bank if camping or staying remote.

• Safety Gear: In addition to a helmet, I carry sunglasses, a bandana (to keep dust out), and good hiking-style shoes (flip-flops are dangerous on a bike). A reflective vest or light at dawn/dusk is wise.
  

La Da S House in Da Nang

• Accommodations: Hue and Da Nang are natural overnight stops with lots of hotels/hostels. In Hue you can also rent bikes or do a short cruise on Perfume River. Homestays near Lang Co or DMZ (A Lưới) offer an authentic feel if you detour. In Hoi An, book ahead in peak season (cheap guesthouses from ~$10, midrange hotels ~$30+ per night).

• Health: Carry water and stay hydrated. A basic first-aid kit is smart (bandages, antiseptic) for any scrapes. Insect repellent will help in jungle areas.

Costs (Approximate)

• Scooter Rental: ~120,000-150,000 VND/day for a decent automatic scooter (about $5-7 USD). Fill-up costs just a few dollars for this leg.

• Fuel: Expect around 5-7 USD total to cover Phong Nha-Hoi An on a 110-150cc bike.

• Tolls: National roads are mostly free. You will pay occasional parking fees (~5k VND) or small tolls for tunnels (e.g. Phước Tượng Tunnel, ~18k VND, if you use Highway 1).

• Entrance Fees: Paradise Cave 250k; Vinh Mốc tunnels 40k; Hue Citadel 150k; Marble Mtn 40k; Elephant Springs 10k; Hoi An Old Town 120k. Costs change, so carry extra cash.

• Food: Street food bowls and noodles: ~30-50k VND. Sit-down meal in a midrange restaurant: 100-200k VND per person. Bottled water ~10-15k.

• Accommodation: Dorm beds from ~$5-7, guesthouses ~$10-20, 3-star hotels $20-40+ per night, more for high-end.
  

Hoi an Street at Night

Before you ride out, it is worth deciding how long to stay. Our Phong Nha itinerary sets out what fits in two days and what needs three.

A few more questions

Can I do this ride without a motorbike licence?

Legally, no. Vietnam requires a Vietnamese licence or an International Driving Permit issued under the 1968 Vienna Convention, and permits issued under the 1949 Geneva Convention are not valid here. Rental shops will hand you a bike either way, but travel insurance does not cover an unlicensed rider, and the Hai Van Pass is not the road to discover that on. If you do not have the right licence, the Easy Rider option in this article puts a licensed driver on the bike and you on the back, with the luggage moved separately.

How long does the ride actually take?

Two days is the realistic minimum for the full Phong Nha to Hoi An route, with a night in Hue. It can be ridden in one very long day, and people do, but that means eight to ten hours in the saddle with no time at the stops that are the reason to ride rather than take the bus.

What happens to my luggage?

Most hostels at both ends run a bag transfer for a fee, and the Easy Rider operators include it. Riding the Hai Van Pass with a full backpack on your shoulders changes the handling of the bike and is worth avoiding.

What time of year should I not do this?

September to December. The central coast gets its rain then, the Hai Van Pass sits in cloud for days at a time, and the viewpoint that is the whole point of the pass shows you nothing. Flooding on the coastal road between Hue and Da Nang is a normal occurrence in October and November.

What do I do if the bike breaks down?

Roadside repair shops, marked sua xe, are frequent on Highway 1 and rare on the mountain sections. Photograph the rental agreement and the shop's phone number before leaving, carry the number offline, and note that phone signal drops in parts of the pass. A puncture repair is inexpensive and usually done while you wait.

If you have a spare day at the Phong Nha end before setting off, the Elephant Cave and Ma Da Valley trek goes into the national park's core zone on foot: jungle trail, a river swim, a permit and a daily cap.