


I rolled into Phong Nha after soaking up Hue’s imperial vibes, debating how many days to spend in Phong Nha. Most folks recommend at least two full days to hit the main spots, but if your itinerary is flexible, take out three to four days to snoop around lazy rivers, plop down at farmstays in Phong Nha, or even tackle the epic Hang En or Mada Valley trek.
And, if you’ve got six days in your Phong Nha itinerary and a healthy budget, sign up for the Son Doong mega-expedition-six days of spelunking that’ll change your life (and cost about 72 million VND or almost freaking $3000. Yes, it's USD!).
Day 1: Classic Caves
Morning: Phong Nha Cave Boat Ride
Kick things off at the Phong Nha Cave boat station.
Entrance tickets are at 150,000 VND per adult, and the shared wooden boats (12 seats max) hover around 550,000 VND round-trip. You’ll glide along the Son River under limestone karsts, then float into the cavern’s dim cathedral of stalactites. The cave complex runs daily from about 7:30 AM to 5:00 PM, while the last boats depart around 3:30 PM. Aim for early morning departure to dodge crowds and snag better photo ops.
Location of boat station on google maps here.
Afternoon: Tien Son Cave
Ready for a wet-cave adventure? Tien Son sits just upstream-tack on 80,000 VND if you want to explore its inner chambers, or simply piggyback on your boat pass (group boat fee ~550,000 VND). You’ll hop out right at the cave mouth, then follow wooden walkways through glittering formations and gentle pools. Plan on two-and-a-half hours to fully savor both caves without rushing.
Evening: Town Vibes
Back in town, I found my groove sipping cold local brews at Pub with cold beer (location on google maps), chatting with fellow backpackers over sticky rice and lemongrass chicken. The night market hums with the aroma of bánh xèo, fresh spring rolls, and banh mi-perfect fuel after a day underground.
Day 2: Adventure & Relaxation
Morning: Paradise Cave
Day two starts with a 45-minute motorbike loop (or tour van) to Paradise Cave which is aptly nicknamed Thiên Đường, “Heaven.” Adults pay 250,000 VND each, kids 125,000 VND, and it’s open 7:00 AM-4:00 PM year-round. The cave is renowned for record-breaking dry chambers and spectacular insect-lit stalagmites. If your legs are tired, hop on the electric buggy (round-trip ~25,000 VND) to breeze down the hill.
Midday: Dark Cave & Chày River
Next up, swing by Dark Cave for some good old mud-bath therapy. Packages-including zipline, rope swing, kayaking, and slick mud slides-start at around 450,000 VND per person. Wade into the turquoise waters of Chày River before plunging into the cave’s pitch-black tunnel filled with inflatable fun.
Afternoon: Mooc Springs Eco-Trail
Cool off a second time at Phong Nha Mooc Springs - entry is 180,000 VND and covers swimming pools, bamboo bridges, kayaking, and cliff jumps. It’s like a natural waterpark hidden beneath jungle vines. Grab a fresh coconut or pho stall nearby before heading back to town.
I spent a lot of time here just relaxing in the pools doing nothing, it's quite peaceful!
Day 3: Off the Beaten Path & Hidden Gems
Self-guided Motorbike Loop
Rent a motorbike for about 100,000 VND/day (plus petrol) and carve your own discovery loop. The roads are quiet, well-paved, and bordered by rice paddies and towering karsts-pure zen on two wheels.
You would be quoted the price of a motorbike from 100k VND to 150k VND. Just know that you can easily negotiate it down!
Whisper-quiet Botanical Garden
One of my favorite low-key stops was Phong Nha Botanical Garden - 40,000 VND entry plus 5,000 VND for bike parking. The trail winds through rare orchids, limestone formations, and bird calls. On a rainy afternoon, it feels like your own private Jurassic Park.
Indigenous Village & Local Flavors
Chat up locals for directions to a tiny tribal hamlet tucked deep in the park-no official signposts, just a dirt track and friendly wave from villagers. End the day at the Duck Stop café (you’ll hear it before you see it-just follow the quacks) or sink into a hammock with a cold draft at Pub with cold beer for one last round.
Epic Multi-day Expeditions
Feeling extra wild? Book Oxalis or a Jungle Boss tour for Hang En (2 days/7.6 million VND) or the Hang Pygmy (2 days/7.9 million VND). These off-trail adventures dive deep into the jungle, cross dozens of streams, and camp under cathedral-like caverns-just be ready for leeches on the last ascend!
Did you know Hang Pygmy is the fourth largest cave in the world and you can do that tour for less than $300!
Getting There & Practical Tips
Train + Transfer: Most travelers jump off the SE6/SE7 sleeper train in Dong Hoi, then hop a 45-minute private car (about 650,000 VND each way) or local bus (sub 100,000 VND) to Phong Nha.
Where to Stay: Phong Nha town center is compact-everything from backpacker hostels to mid-range homestays (300,000 VND double/night) sits within walking distance of cafes, bike rentals, and the boat pier.
Best Season: Dry season (March-August) delivers sunny skies, mid-20s °C temps, and easy cave access. Monsoon months (September-February) add lush drama but risk flood-closed roads and trails.
Insider Tips
Go DIY Phong Nha: Avoid group-tour flocking-pay entry at each cave, then wander at your own pace (tour quotes tend to be 1.5 million VND for basic combos; skipping the middleman saves cash and crowds).
Early Bird: Beat the midday heat-start cave runs by 8 AM.
Bargain Bike: Negotiate petrol inclusion when renting (some shops toss in 1 liter free!).
Local Eats: Stall Pho Cơm at the night market is a 30,000 VND steal-loaded with local herbs and broth you’ll dream about.
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