


After weeks exploring Vietnam from Ho Chi Minh City up through the Central Highlands, the hang en cave tour in Quang Binh’s Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park delivers a once in a lifetime adventure
Hang En (literally “Swallow Cave”) is one of the most impressive caves in Vietnam and the third largest in the world. What really blew me away was the campsite which was a wide sandy beach with an emerald green lake, bathed in sunlight streaming from high cave openings. It felt like camping in a natural amphitheater. If you love adventure and wild scenery, Hang En is a dream come true.
If you are looking to do more than just dark cave / paradise cave in Phong Nha then Hang En is a really good option!
Natural Amphitheater Campsite: Wide sandy beach beside a turquoise pool
December-February Sunbeam Season: Dramatic morning light shows through the cave mouth
Underground River Swim: Chilly dip in a sheltered pool (17-25°C)
Unique Jungle Ecosystem: River, beach, and forest live inside the cavern
Hang En Campsite, Phong Nha - Photo source: Tripadvisor
Hang En stands out among Vietnam’s spectacular caves. At 1.6 km long, up to 200 m wide, and 100-140 m high, it houses its own jungle and river. Thousands of swallows nest in the ceiling, filling spring mornings with birdsong. Journalist Peter Barrett called its campsite “an underground beach inside the world’s third-largest cave.”
Getting to Hang En takes some planning, since it’s in a remote core zone of Phong Nha Ke Bang National park. First you must reach the Phong Nha/Dong Hoi area of Quảng Bình. Most travelers fly or take the train to Dong Hoi City (the park’s nearest city). Dong Hoi has a small airport with domestic flights from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, and the Reunification Express train runs along the coast stopping there. From Dong Hoi, it’s a short (~40 min) taxi or bus ride to Son Trạch (often just called Phong Nha village), where the adventure companies and guesthouses are based. If you’re coming overland from the south, there are also direct buses from Hue or even Sapa that can drop you in Phong Nha.
Once in Phong Nha village, Hang En trips must be booked with a licensed operator (the only one is Oxalis Adventure) and depart from their office. Oxalis will pick you up by van from your hotel around 7:30 - 8:00 am on the day of departure. In practice, I arrived in Phong Nha the evening before, relaxed in a local guesthouse (many book Chày Lập Farmstay, which offers discounts for Oxalis guests), and met the rest of the group at Oxalis HQ the next morning. From there the journey begins with a drive (on the old Hồ Chí Minh Trail) to the jungle trailhead, then a few days of trekking to reach the cave.
The Hang En trek is an active 2-day/1-night trip through dense jungle and river valleys. Oxalis’s standard itinerary (which we followed) goes like this:
Day 1: Morning pickup in Phong Nha, safety briefing and gear check. Begin trekking down a steep trail through primeval forest. After ~1.5 hours (plus a few stream crossings), we reached the minority village of Đoòng, home of the Bru-Vân Kiều people.
We enjoyed a simple lunch there and chatted with the villagers about local life. Then it was on through the jungle wading small streams again and again for about 3 more hours.
Mid-afternoon we finally arrived at Hang Én’s entrance. We donned helmets and headlamps, scrambled up the rocky slope into the cave, and saw our camp laid out before us: tents on a sandy beach next to that turquoise pool. We couldn’t resist a quick swim before dinner! The Oxalis guides set up tents, provided mattresses/sleeping bags, and cooked a hot meal for us on site.
Sleeping inside that cave, under the stars visible from the big opening, was surreal.
Hang En Cave, Phong Nha - Photo source: Tripadvisor
Day 2: After an early breakfast in the cave, we spent the morning exploring deeper inside Hang Én. The cave extends a couple kilometers from the entrance; we climbed over boulders, admired the gigantic stalagmites/stalactites, and climbed further up a slope to a higher chamber with a view back to the campsite (a perfect photo spot).
We then scrambled down through the cave, following the underground river until we emerged on the cave’s far sandy exit. After a quick break, it was time to leave which meant retracing our steps: multiple river crossings and one final steep climb (about 450 meters up to the jungle road).
The Oxalis team was waiting at the top with cold drinks and a bus, whisking us back to Phong Nha by early evening (around 6pm).
The trek is moderately challenging with steep sections and ~30 river crossings. We were often sweaty and our feet would go from dry to wet dozens of times. Luckily 70% of the trail is shaded by dense forest, keeping us from full sun. The guides were fantastic, helping with equipment and pointing out things to see. We even spotted a few monkeys and langurs near the entrance, and the constant high-pitched cries of thousands of swifts above. It helped to be in decent shape.
We'd done some training hikes beforehand but you don’t need to be a mountaineer. Oxalis recommends participants be able to walk 810 km a day on uneven terrain. Everyone in our group (late 20s and early 30s, plus a 65-year-old) made it fine, with plenty of breaks. Bring a sense of adventure and watch out for leeches and poison plants on the forest floor!
Packing light is key since you’ll carry your own daypack (Oxalis hauls the heavy gear). Based on Oxalis’s checklist, I brought:
Clothing: 12 sets of quick-dry long-sleeve shirts and long pants (to protect against sun, bugs and scrapes). Even in summer it’s cooler in the cave and at night, so I also had a fleece or light down jacket. (A waterproof jacket was handy from DecMar, as it can get cold and drizzly on the trail.)
Footwear: A sturdy pair of trail shoes or boots with good tread (Oxalis provides rubber jungle boots, but I prefer my own well-worn hiking shoes). Avoid heavy Gore-Tex boots they’ll fill with water at every river crossing. Instead use quick-drain shoes or sandals. Bring 23 pairs of thick socks. (I even brought a small tin of antifungal powder for my feet.)
Camp kit: Swimwear (for the cave pool), a small quick-dry towel, and flip-flops or sandals for relaxing at camp. Personal items like toothbrushes, biodegradable soap, toilet paper, and hand sanitizer are a must.
Extras: Wide-brim hat, sunglasses, and strong sunscreen though the trail is shady, the river crossings and cave opening mean you’ll see bright sun. Insect repellent is recommended (for the jungle). I also carried a dry bag or zip-lock plastic for my camera, phone and spare clothes to keep them from getting wet. A headlamp or flashlight (Oxalis provides helmet lamps, but I had a small extra one too). Snacks/energy bars and candies were nice to have on hand. And definitely bring a power bank to recharge your camera/phone (we had no outlets until we returned to civilization). Lastly, carry a 12L water bottle we refilled at river stops, but it’s nice to have personal water.
Pro tip: Pack cash (~VND 200k-500k in small bills) for tips, souvenirs or any extras. Our local guide was thrilled with a modest tip at the end (we also tipped the porters for carrying heavy gear). Don’t bring valuables, there's no safe place. And leave jewelry or anything irreplaceable behind (the jungle and caves are hard on gear).
Another tip is if you ever come back to Phong Nha and do an oxalis tour again, you get 10% off!
Hang En tours run only in the dry season. Officially, Oxalis opens Hang Én from December through mid-September. The cave is closed from mid-September to November due to heavy rains and flooding risk. Within that window, I recommend December to March.
The weather is cooler, and on clear mornings the sun beams light spectacularly into the cave (peak sunbeam season is DecFeb). We visited in late January and loved the crisp mornings and the sun rays in the cave (plus the chill made the 17°C pool feel wonderfully warm).
From April to August, you’ll face warmer days (sometimes quite hot by afternoon) and more humid jungle hikes. It’s still fine if you pack accordingly (and wake early), but you won’t see the sunbeams as dramatically. Also note that AprilMay can have short heavy showers in the afternoon which makes the streams higher and the trails muddier. This can add to the adventure but makes hiking slower.
Avoid the rainy season: in late September/October, Vietnam’s central coast gets typhoons and nonstop rain. Even if you luck out, Oxalis will cancel tours during downpours (the organizers monitor weather closely for safety). In fact, travelers have reported visits where tropical storms hit Hang Én while they were there, definitely not worth that risk.
Hang En Cave, Phong Nha - Photo source: Tripadvisor
Hang En is an expensive trip by local standards, but it’s a full-service adventure. The tour price is 8,000,000 VND per person (around US$310 as of mid 2025). That single price includes almost everything: meals on both days, park entry fees, camping and caving equipment, and guide services. Oxalis even provides group travel insurance (covering up to 10 million VND) during the trek. On top of that, Oxalis supplies all the gear you need: tents, mattresses, sleeping bags, helmets, lamps, and jungle boots.
Booking must go through Oxalis (they’re the only licensed operator for Hang Én). Tours depart on fixed dates, so it’s wise to reserve well in advance. Oxalis recommends booking at least a few months ahead (they even offer a 10% early-bird discount if you book 90+ days out). I booked online directly through the Oxalis website: after I filled the form, an agent confirmed our details and asked for full payment (they require 100% payment to secure the spot). Important: you can cancel for free up to 7 days before departure, but after that there are no refunds. So be sure of your dates!
If you prefer booking through a travel agent or hotel in Phong Nha, that works too just make sure they are coordinating with Oxalis. Be cautious of any “cheaper” operators; Hang Én requires special permission, so unknown companies are unlikely.
Get fit before you go. Even though Hang En is “only” moderate, it helped that I’d been staying active (hiking, swimming, etc.). Try some long walks or stair workouts a few weeks before. The trek involves ~25 km and 30 stream crossings, so good cardio makes it more fun.
Stay hydrated. Drink plenty of water the day before and morning of. On the trek, Oxalis supplies water at lunch and dinner, but bring your own bottle too. We also carried some electrolyte powder (replenishing salts after so much sweating).
Protect your electronics. I put my phone and camera in waterproof zip-locks inside the pack. The cave is generally dry except for one section near the lake, but the jungle is humid and your bag might get splashed. A lightweight dry bag is worth its weight in gold.
Rest well the night before. If possible, arrive in Phong Nha a day early. I booked a cozy bamboo bungalow in a guesthouse and relaxed in town. Oxalis actually offers a free dorm (Oxalis Home) for early arrivals. I took a short hike and washed my clothes. Being well-rested made the trek much easier.
Talk to your guides. The Oxalis guides were friendly and full of knowledge. On the first day they explained the local stories (like how villagers collect swift nests!), and on the second day they pointed out hidden cave formations. Don’t be shy to ask questions. They speak English well and love to share.
Cash is king. There’s no ATM or stores in the jungle. We used our extra cash to buy cold drinks and local gifts on the final return drive. (Our guide also mentioned that villagers sometimes welcome small purchases of rice or school supplies as a courtesy.) Know how much to tip in Phong Nha.
Be flexible. Jungle weather and trails can be unpredictable. Mud, leeches, or an unexpected rain shower might slow you down. Just go with the flow and enjoy the adventure that’s all part of the story you’ll tell.
Sunbeams Photography: If you want those iconic cave sunbeams, plan to be awake and at the cave entrance before sunrise during the cool season. I watched from my tent as golden shafts pierced the morning mist at around 7:00 AM. A simple point-and-shoot can capture it (we propped our cameras on a rock). Just don’t forget to turn around the early light on the jungle wall behind camp also makes for great shots.
Swim time: The emerald lake at camp is surprisingly shallow and safe. In the evening, after dinner, go for a quick dip. The water is warmer than it looks (especially in winter!), and the feel of cool water after a hot day is heavenly. It’s also fun to sit on the sand beach and watch the river gently flow past the camp.
Doong Village: This remote village (Ban Doong) is a real peek at local life. We had lunch in a family’s stilt house with BBQ pork and rice wine. A tip here: bring some small gifts (pens, snacks, or bottled water) the villagers will be very grateful. Also, try the local rice liquor if offered, and be prepared to smile for many photos. The kids especially love meeting visitors.
Cave exploration: At night I lingered after dark to see the cave in reverse. If you’re allowed, climb back up to the second chamber (Oxalis permits a brief walk-around to watch the stars through the ceiling hole). It’s an eerie beauty listening to jungle sounds echoing off the limestone. Just follow your guide’s instructions carefully.
Chạy Lập Farmstay: Many Hang En trekkers talked about staying here before/after. It’s a lovely riverside farm with bamboo cottages and free kayaks on site. Oxalis guests get a special rate (check for booking codes). I spent my last morning floating in their pool, recounting the cave adventure as a peaceful contrast to the jungle.
Extend your trip: If time and budget allow, consider adding Hang Sơn Đoòng (world’s largest cave) or Hang Va to your itinerary (Oxalis runs 3-4 day expeditions there). Hang En actually serves as the first night of the Sơn Đoòng trek, so it’s a teaser. Or, on the way south, detour to nearby Paradise Cave or Phong Nha Cave for more easy caving.
Q: How hard is the Hang En trek?
A: Oxalis rates it moderate: about 25 km of hiking with some steep climbs and around 30 river crossings. You should be able to walk ~10 km a day on uneven trails. The jungle path can be muddy, and you will wade through knee- to waist-deep streams many times. Overall it’s tough but doable for active people. We all managed (ages 20s60s) by going at a steady pace, taking breaks, and helping each other at tricky spots.
Q: How do I book Hang En and what does it cost?
A: Book directly with Oxalis (their website or Phong Nha office). The two-day tour is fixed-schedule and costs 8,000,000 VND (~US$310) per person. That covers everything: two full meals, camping gear, cave equipment, park fees, guides and porters, plus minimal travel insurance. You pay 100% up front. Book early (90+ days) to snag a 10% discount. You can cancel (with full refund) up to 7 days before departure, but no refunds after that.
Q: What should I pack? Do I need any special gear?
A: Pack light. Essentials include quick-dry long-sleeve shirts/pants, warm layers for camp, good grip trekking shoes (no heavy waterproof boots), spare socks, rain jacket (DecMar). Also bring swimwear, towel, hat/sunglasses, insect repellent, sunscreen, and personal toiletries (biodegradable soap, toilet paper). The operator provides a helmet, headlamp, tent and sleeping bag, so no need for those. A medium daypack (20L) is perfect. Oxalis even provides a dry bag for cameras. Don’t forget a power bank and plenty of snacks/water for the hike.
Q: When is the cave open, and is there a best time to go?
A: Tours run December through mid-September. They halt tours around September (peak of the rainy season). The best window is DecMar, when the weather is cooler and cave sunbeams occur. AprilAugust is drier but very hot; you can still go then with plenty of water. Avoid late SeptNov (tropical storms close the cave).
Q: Will we sleep in the cave? What’s camp like?
A: Yes! You’ll sleep at a camp inside Hang Én. Oxalis sets up sturdy tents on the sandy cave floor near a pool. Each tent has a foam mattress and sleeping bag. The cave entrance is open-air on one side, so you’ll wake up with fresh morning light. It’s surprisingly comfortable, you even get pillows and hot dinner ready for you. The only “wild” aspect is that you hear bats or insects at night; some call it magical.
Q: Are there any age or health restrictions?
A: Oxalis requires participants to be between 16 and 70 years old and in good health. Pregnant people and those with serious medical issues are advised not to join. You should be comfortable walking long distances and scrambling a bit. If you’re uncertain, Oxalis asks you to fill a health form and can advise. Guides are trained in first aid and carry medkits, but remember there is no quick escape if you’re deep in the jungle.
Q: Can I join a Hang En tour as a solo traveler?
A: Absolutely. Many people join as individuals and are slotted into mixed groups (max 16 per Oxalis tour). It’s a great way to meet fellow travelers. Just make sure to book your spot early. If you have friends, you can also request a private trip (for extra cost).
Q: Do I need to be able to swim?
A: You should be comfortable in water. The trek involves shallow river crossings (some up to waist-high) and the camp has a pond you can swim in. Oxalis provides life jackets if needed. No intense swimming is required; it's more a fun dip at camp than a serious swim.
Q: What about safety? Are there guides and equipment?
A: Oxalis guides are certified professionals. They furnish you with all safety equipment (helmet, headlamp, gloves) and carry spare gear. They constantly watch the weather and river levels. The group also travels with safety assistants/porters. Of course, cave expeditions have risks (slippery rocks, wildlife, flooding), but Oxalis has a very good safety record. Still, it’s wise to have your own travel insurance (they recommend it for the adventure).
Q: Is it worth doing Hang En instead of Son Doong or other caves?
A: If you don’t have time or budget for the super-long Sơn Đoòng tour, Hang Én is an excellent taste of Phong Nha’s epic scenery. It’s shorter (2 days) and much cheaper (only ~$310 vs ~$3,000 for Son Doong), but still unforgettable. Many travelers call it the “best bang for your buck”. You sleep in a huge cave, see incredible views, and still enjoy village culture. Compared to the day-trip caves (Phong Nha, Paradise), Hang Én is far wilder and more remote. So yes, it’s absolutely worth it if you love a bit of thrill and don’t mind hard hiking.
Q: Is there cell service or internet?
A: Not in the jungle or cave. Turn off work emails and enjoy the digital detox! (On arrival days in Phong Nha village and in Dong Hoi you can get a signal.)
Q: What do I need to reserve before the trip?
A: You must book the tour with Oxalis in advance (they’ll send you a visa letter if needed). Also arrange your accommodation in Phong Nha for the nights before/after. Bringing a passport or Vietnamese ID is important (you’ll show it when signing waivers and to park rangers). Everything else (transport, food, gear) is handled by the tour company.
By covering these bases, my Hang En experience became one of my Vietnam highlights, an unforgettable mix of nature, culture, and adventure. If you’re heading north through Vietnam, make sure this cave tops your list!
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