


Thung Khe Pass (Deo Thung Khe) is a breathtaking mountain pass that connects Hanoi to Mai Chau Valley in Vietnam. While not getting the same fanfare as the popular Hai Van Pass, this little secret spot where beautiful nature meets genuine Vietnamese culture is the real deal.
As the person who has wandered all around Vietnam from the Mekong Delta all the way up to Ha Giang, I'm here to give you all the intel for travelling the complete Thung Khe Pass like a pro tour guide.
Thung Khe Pass is a 30 km stretch on Highway 6 in Hoa Binh Province, about 130 km south-west of Hanoi. It's more or less the gateway to Mai Chau, a relaxed valley that's known for stilted houses and Thai villages. The pass itself is pretty high up at around 1,000m above sea level, so there's great views there of the rugged limestone cliffs and rice fields.
They refer to it as "White Rock Pass" (Đèo Đá Trắng) due to the pale limestone cliffs. And don't get it confused with the Ma Pi Leng Pass in Ha Giang—that one's much busier and farther from Hanoi!
Thung Khe Pass is stunning year-round, but timing matters:
March–May (Spring): Clear skies, blooming flowers, and lush greenery. Ideal for photography.
September–November (Autumn): Golden rice terraces and crisp air. Minimal rain.
June–August (Summer): Misty mornings create an ethereal vibe, but afternoon thunderstorms are common.
December–February (Winter): Chilly (down to 10°C) and foggy, but fewer tourists. It can get quite challenging and I would say only do it if you have some experience driving in low visibility conditions.
Pro Tip: Visit at sunrise! The mist hugs the mountains like a blanket, and you'll have the road to yourself.
Dragon's Jaw Viewpoint (Đỉnh Đèo Thung Khe): The pass summit (there is a sign) offers incredible 360° views. Simply park at the small rest stop and take a 5-minute walk up the hill.
Hidden Waterfalls: Ask locals about suối đá (stone streams) near the base of the pass. In the rainy season, these turn into mini cascades.
Stop at any local cafe in Thung Khe. For 20,000 VND (~$0.80), you can sip robusta Vietnamese coffee while overlooking valleys. Or just try sticky rice with sesame which most cafes serve there!
Turn onto the side road into the Xa Linh Village about 10km away from the pass. Their Saturday marketplace has all kinds of embroidered attire and herbal products.
The "Secret" Photo Spot: At Km 76, a narrow dirt path leads to a cliffside with unobstructed valley views (look for a red prayer flag tied to a tree).
Homestay Heaven: Mai Chau Ecolodge (15 km from the pass) offers bamboo bungalows with private terraces. Book the "Misty Mountain" room for sunrise views.
Motorbike Detour to Cun Mountain: You've got about a 20km ride from the pass, and the relaxed spot offers great 360° views of Hoa Binh Lake.
Money saving Tip: Ask the owner of your homestay for a guided hike - they will give you dirt cheap prices compared to guided tours from third party travel sites.
From Hanoi: Rent a motorbike (~150,000 VND/day) for flexibility. The 4-hour ride includes the pass.
By bus, simply take a Hanoi-Mai Chau bus for 100,000 VND and ask the driver to let you off at Đèo Thung Khe.
Paved road, but very steep and curvy. Just keep going slowly, particularly if it's raining.
Warm layers (it's chilly at the top!), rain gear, and a power bank—service is spotty.
Mai Chau Valley (30km): Take a boat ride through rice fields and crash in a Thai homestay.
Pu Luong Nature Reserve (50km): Trek through bamboo forests and swim in waterfalls.
Hoa Binh Lake (45km): Kayak among the floating villages and cool limestone cliffs.
Thung Khe Pass is not only a scenic drive - it's a glimpse into Vietnam's raw beauty and harsh hill tribes. Let's keep it gentle on the earth: don't litter, haggle with a smile at the markets, and support the local businesses. As I always say, "Take photos, leave footprints, and keep the magic alive." Ready to hit the road?
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