Pho Chay - Vietnam’s Vegetarian Pho

Pho chay literally means "vegetarian Pho". It’s the meatless version of Vietnam’s famous noodle soup, traditionally made with a clear vegetable broth and toppings like tofu, mushrooms and plant-based “meat.”

Many Buddhist restaurants and street stalls serve Pho chay, especially on temple grounds and during vegetarian festivals. The broth is usually flavoured with ginger, star anise and soy sauce instead of beef, giving it a lighter, herbaceous flavour that even meat-eaters find satisfying.

Where to find Pho Chay

This dish is common at quan chay (vegetarian restaurants) and pagoda canteens. In Ho Chi Minh City, head to Pho Chay Nhu (54 Truong Quyen, D3) which is a legendary chay eatery open from morning to night. In Hanoi, Quan Pho Chay Anh Hai (an alleyway near Hoàn Kiếm) is famous for its rich veggie broth, serving only in the morning (7-11am). You may also find Pho chay at vegan cafes (for example, Hanoi’s Kiez Vegan serves it on certain days) or casual family-run chay stalls that switch to vegetarian menus.

Note: The word “chay” means vegetarian. So any menu item with “chay” has no meat. To ensure zero fish sauce, say “không mắm” when ordering (literally “no fish sauce”).

Top Pho Chay Spots & Varieties

Pho Chay Nhu Restaurant in Saigon

• Pho Chay Nhu (HCMC) - A small alleyway joint beloved by vegans. Open 6am-9pm, it serves big bowls of Pho chay with tofu, mushrooms, wood-ear fungus and Thai basil. The broth here is light but flavourful, and portions are generous.

  

  Food Served in Quan Pho Chay Anh Hai in Hanoi

• Quan Pho Chay Anh Hai (Hanoi) - This the best Pho chay in Vietnam!. It’s a no-frills street stall (open 7-11am) with a deep, beefy-tasting veggie broth, steamed rice noodles and toppings like mock meatballs and braised tofu.
  Location of Quan Pho Chay Anh Hai restaurant.

  

  Vegetarian Buffet in a Vietnamese Restaurant in Saigon

• Vegetarian Buffet Spots - Across cities, many vegetarian restaurants offer Pho chay alongside extensive buffet spreads. Expect a slightly sweeter broth and a variety of vegan “meats.” These places often have communal pots of sauce on the table, so double-check if it’s plant-based.

  

  Minh Thanh Pagoda of Pleiku in Vietnam

• Temple Canteens - In pagodas (especially in Saigon and Hue), monks cook Pho chay for visitors. These versions might use vegetarian fish sauce or omit it entirely. Dining here is communal.

Cost, Hours and more

• Price: Pho chay bowls usually cost 40,000-60,000 VND (around £1-£2). Some restaurants let you add extra toppings (tofu, mock meat) for a small surcharge.

• Hours: In addition to a few breakfast-only stalls, many Pho chay spots open by 8am and serve through late lunch. A handful remain open for dinner.

• Season: Enjoy it year-round. Pho chay is lighter than beef Pho, making it especially refreshing on a hot day or a gentle meal after a temple visit.

• Garnishes: Served with the usual Pho accoutrements - bean sprouts, Thai basil, lime and chilli. Feel free to pile on the herbs!

• Health: Naturally vegan/vegetarian (if fish sauce is avoided). It’s high in protein (tofu) and low in fat. Most places use MSG, so ask if you want a low-sodium version.

  

  Whoever Says Vietnam Does Not Have Enough Options for Vegeterians Is Wrong!

FAQs

What makes Pho chay different from regular Pho?
Pho chay uses a vegetable broth (ginger, spices, soy) instead of beef broth. It contains no meat, but still has rice noodles and herbs. The taste is lighter and cleaner, although rich and savory.

Is Pho chay completely vegan?
By default it’s vegetarian. Many vendors use fish sauce for flavor, so it may not be vegan. To ensure vegan, ask for no fish sauce or check if the restaurant uses vegetarian fish sauce.

Where can I find the best Pho chay?
Hanoi’s Pho Chay Anh Hai is the best. In Saigon, Pho Chay Như is iconic. But really, any Buddhist temple restaurant or vegetarian cafe is worth a try. Look for the “Pho CHAY” sign!

What toppings come in Pho chay?
Expect tofu, seitan (wheat gluten “meat”), mushrooms (wood ear, shiitake), veggie balls, bean sprouts and herbs. Fried shallots and peanuts may be sprinkled on top.

How much does Pho chay cost?
Very affordable - usually 40,000-60,000 VND per bowl. This is cheaper than most meat-version Pho. Special add-ons might add 5,000-10,000 VND.

When is Pho chay served?
Any time. Some spots focus on breakfast, but many serve it until mid-afternoon or dinner. Vegetarian restaurants often start early and close by dinnertime.